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Friday, January 25, 2013

Calzone


Calzone is defined as "a kind of pizza where the dough is folded over the filling making a half moon shape.  The edge is then crimped to keep the filling in making it easier pick up and eat."

This is not the description of the Calzone I grew up enjoying while living at home and the one I make now is a little different from the one my mother made and even different from the one served at many eateries today.

This raises the question.  When does one tradition end and another begin?

The Calzone my mother made certainly followed the tradition that her mother embraced and I am positive that to this day she still follows the old unwritten recipe exactly.

Introducing change to long standing tradition was something not even thought about back then.  The simple preparation of food was believed to be tried and true and it was most likely considered offensive to make any changes. I say this because I sense a certain disapproval when informing my mother that I‘ve made changes to any of her traditional recipes.

She still makes a delicious Calzone, very simple with the choice of two fillings. One filling is a combination of caramelized onions, anchovies and olives and the other consists of seasoned ground meat, sautéed onions and cheese.  Her Calzone were always made family style in large round shaped pans to accommodate a crowd. It's interesting to note that even now only having to cook for herself she still makes her round family style Calzone but in a much smaller size of course.  Now, that's sticking to tradition!

The pans in which she used to make Calzone for us made the ocean voyage with her when she immigrated to Canada, I’m sure there was a certain comfort in using those familiar pans when all else was so unfamiliar.

I feel so fortunate to have inherited a large round pan that belonged to my grandmother, passed down to my mother and now finding a place in my home.  We have estimated it to be close to the hundred year mark.

This pan carries a wealth of heritage as it was originally a gift from my grandfather to my grandmother who had it made especially for her. She eventually brought it to Canada upon moving here but years later decided to return to the homeland "unfortunately" forgetting to take it back with her. It turned out to be "fortunately" for us as we have enjoyed it ever since.  I consider it a precious heirloom, more valuable than the finest jewelry and I have a feeling its travels are not over yet.

Although keeping with the tradition of making a family size calzone, on occasion I make the more recent traditional half-moon shape.  It seems that my children began a tradition of their own when they requested more unconventional fillings than the usual.  I have decided not to share this new recipe with my mother as I’m sure it will not sit well with her.

As much as tradition must be valued I believe that one should not be restricted by it.  Even the most subtle change in a traditional recipe can be the starting point for a completely new and even more delicious tradition.

Calzone
The ingredients listed makes two 10 to 12 inch round Calzones or four half moon.  Start out by making a batch of pizza dough and cut it into 6 equal portions and allow to rise in separate plastic baggies.   If not inclined to make your own dough purchase some ready made from the supermarket. (I promise not to get upset if you choose to go this route.)
Possibilities for fillings are endless ranging from personal favourites to leftovers from the previous night’s dinner. Lots of cheese is good and save the tomato sauce for your next pizza.

4 pieces pizza dough (save the remaining 2 pieces for pizza or foccacia)

Preparation of Meat
total of 1 pound ground pork and veal mixed together well
4 to 5 medium cooking onions
¼ cup grated cheese (parmiggiano, crotonese, etc.)
¼ cup finely grated dry bread crumbs
3 eggs
Salt and pepper to taste

Filling

cooked ground meat and onions
8 ounces mushrooms (sautéed)
4 slices Prosciutto Cotto (Italian cooked ham)
½ cup kalamata olives cut in half
1 small thinly sliced green pepper
shredded mozzarella

1 beaten egg for brushing on top of Calzone
  1. Peel and slice onions very thinly, add 2 to 3 tablespoons corn oil in large skillet and cook onions until just beginning to soften and brown, set aside.
  2. In a medium bowl beat eggs, add meat, cheese, bread crumbs, salt and pepper and blend well.
  3. Add meat mixture to the onions in skillet and mix together, cook until the meat has browned.
  4. Place mixture in a colander and set on top of a bowl to drain any excess fat from the meat.
  5. Roll out a piece of dough and place in pan, layer all filling ingredients on top of the dough.
  6. Roll second piece of dough and cover the fillings, crimp or seal the edges.
  7. Brush with beaten egg and make several cuts on top allowing steam to escape.
  8. Bake in preheated 400 degree F. oven until golden brown.













  1. .


 




Notes, Tips and Suggestions
  • Dough can be made the day before making Calzone, refrigerate until ready to use.
  • Don't mistake Prosciutto Cotto with the regular cooked ham variety.  The difference in price will be the first clue to the right purchase.  The texture and taste speak for themselves.
  • Use any kind of ground meat preferred.  A mix of at least 2 kinds works well.
  • Omission of the egg wash on top of calzone will give you a drier crisper crust.
  • A sprinkle of sesame seeds on top before baking makes a great addition.
  • Bake the calzone on a regular pizza pan, no specialty pan required.

 Doing Double Duty

I originally purchased this cutter/crimper tool from a mail order catalogue a few years after I got married.  It has served me very well over many years.
Sealing the edges of Calzone or Panzerotti can leave excessive amounts of dough around the edges and fillings usually find a way of  getting through any improperly sealed dough. (We're not looking for a Stromboli episode here.)  This wonderful tool cuts off the excess dough and neatly crimps it closed.
In more recent years I have purchased a few more of these invaluable tools from different kitchen specialty stores.  Each time I come across one I think of someone who would appreciate having it as much as myself and excitedly buy it for them.



Friday, January 18, 2013

Persimmon Jam





I came across a small case of Persimmons while shopping last week. They’re not my favourite fruit, I can take them or leave them but decided to buy them for my husband.  I'll admit being taken with the cute wooden box and the straw in which the persimmons were nestled.

By the end of the week they had ripened considerably and being a few too many to eat I began looking for a recipe to use them up before they spoiled.

If you have ever eaten a Persimmon you already know that it must be very ripe otherwise you will be in for a rather bitter experience.  The Persimmons I purchased were of the Hachiya variety known to be very astringent especially when not fully ripe.  When ripe they will have a jelly like consistency and the sweet flesh is easily scooped out with a spoon.

I was not drawn to any of the recipes I came across although Persimmons can be used in a variety of ways from cookies to cakes to puddings.  Curious as to ever being used to make jam I began looking for a recipe and found one that looked interesting and easy enough to try out.

It helped that the pantry and fridge already had all but one of the few ingredients needed, no liquid pectin since up to now I only stock the powdered variety.  A short trip to the grocery store and I was ready to explore.

It feels good to make a batch of jam during the winter months since the jam jars I filled  last summer and fall seem to have become a distant memory.  Persimmon jam is almost peachy in colour and taste.  I experienced a mild astringency and believe that it’s because two of the Persimmons used could have been just a little riper.

Over all I'm happy with the results and have invited a jar to breakfast tomorrow morning!


Persimmon Jam

3 pounds ripe persimmons
7 cups sugar
juice of 2 lemons
1 (6 ounce) bottle liquid pectin
  1. Wash, dry and sterilize eight 250 ml. mason jars by placing them in the oven at 225 degrees F. for 20 minutes.  Keep warm in oven until ready to use.
  2. Sterilize lids and utensils in boiling water for about 20 minutes.
  3. Wash, peel and seed the persimmons.
  4. Place in a food processor and process until smooth, do not over process, some small chunks  are okay.
  5. Place the pulp in a large pot, add the sugar and lemon juice and mix well.
  6. Bring slowly to a boil over high heat until sugar has dissolved, stirring frequently.
  7. Boil hard for 1 minute, then remove the pot from heat and stir in liquid pectin.
  8. Skim off foam that has accumulated on the surface with a sterilized metal spoon.
  9. Ladle into the hot sterilized jars and seal.










 











Notes, Tips and Suggestions
  • Make sure persimmons are very ripe and soft.
  • I couldn’t find a 6 ounce bottle of liquid pectin but Certo brand pectin sells a box containing two 170 ml. pouches which equals just a shade less than 6 ounces, use both pouches.
  • The recipe indicated removal of seeds from the persimmons but I couldn't find any (I was not disappointed in any way).
  • Use of a canning funnel keeps the jam where it should be...in the jar.

Friday, January 11, 2013

Garlic and Mozzarella Stromboli



Garlic and Mozzarella Stromboli has been in my recipe collection for many years although I have only made it a few times. I recently made it to accompany an antipasto spread just for a change from the usual crostini or garlic bread.

As you may already know I love to research the origin of foods that I cook and my curiosity got the better of me on this one as well.  It turned out to be time well spent as I ended up with a bit of a geography lesson, a little food history and the answer to my Stromboli dilemma.

Stromboli is pizza or bread dough filled with cheese and sometimes deli meats then rolled jelly roll style and baked. Unlike traditional pizza there is no tomato sauce in the filling.  I had never heard of Stromboli until coming across this recipe and don’t recall my mother ever making one for us. I guess we didn't miss it for all the Calzone and Panzerotti that graced our table.

There are several opinions on the origin of Stromboli but the most interesting is that there is a volcano on the island of Stromboli off the coast of Sicily believed to be the inspiration for the name of this delicious bread. The story goes that its inventor named it after the island and its erupting volcano.

Each time I’ve made it, regardless of how well the seam was pinched closed, the cheese filling always managed to ooze out while baking.  I found this very frustrating and somewhat of a failure until learning that it’s quite normal for the cheese to erupt from the side of the loaf like the erupting volcano on the island of Stromboli.

Who could have known! The name given to this bread now makes perfect sense and I’ve realized that all efforts to stop my Stromboli from erupting were in vain.

It seems that there are many who are ready to take credit when something delicious is discovered.  I’m more inclined to believe that many years ago a hard working Nonna in a town too small to make it on a map began rolling up her pizzas making it easier for the grandchildren to pick up and eat.

We’ve come a long way since the first Stromboli was ever made and  may never know the exact ingredients and fillings that were used. It really doesn't matter since in this day and age it’s pretty much open to one’s interpretation and taste.


Garlic and Mozzarella Stromboli


Dough

2 teaspoons dry yeast
¼ teaspoon sugar
2 1/2 cups all purpose flour
½ cup whole wheat flour
1 cup warm water
1 egg
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon salt

Filling

1 cup shredded mozzarella
½ cup shredded smoked mozzarella
½ cup grated parmesan cheese
3 tablespoons minced fresh Italian parsley
1 clove garlic minced
1 egg
oil for brushing
  1. Mix yeast, sugar and one tablespoon whole wheat flour over warm water for about 10 minutes.
  2. In a large bowl, mix egg, oil, salt, yeast mixture and remaining whole wheat flour until well blended.
  3. Add remaining 2 1/2 cups flour gradually (add ½ cup at a time until a soft sticky dough forms, you may not need the full amount of flour called for)
  4. Knead dough about 1 minute, place in a greased bowl and allow to rise for 1 hour.
  5. Mix all filling ingredients until completely coated with the egg.  Refrigerate.
  6. Roll into a 12 by 16 inch rectangle.
  7. Spread filling over dough in an even layer leaving a 1 inch border all around.
  8. Roll up jelly roll fashion, pinch ends and tuck under.
  9. Place on a baking sheet sprinkled with cornmeal to prevent sticking.
  10. Cover and let rest 30 minutes.
  11. Brush top with olive oil, prick all over with a fork.  Bake 15 minutes in a preheated 400 degree F oven then reduce heat to 375 degrees F. and continue baking for 20 to 25 minutes until golden.


 






Oops! don't forget the garlic




 

















Notes, Tips and Suggestions
  • Be prepared for cheese to erupt from Stromboli and forever remember that there really is an erupting volcano on the island of Stromboli.
  • This loaf freezes very well, just defrost and heat through before slicing and serving.
  • Smoked Provolone works as well as Smoked Mozzarella.
  • For a less bread like more crusty loaf skip the second rising of 30 minutes and bake right away.
  • The cheese that erupts on to the pan caramelizes and is absolutely delicious!
  • Plan a trip to the island of Stromboli.

Friday, January 4, 2013

Stuffed Artichokes with Peas


This recipe has been in our family for a very long time, not having traveled here so many years ago in a family cook book but forever written in the mind of a young woman traveling distant miles to start a new life in a country she had only heard about.

My mother would often make this just as she had been taught by her mother back in the old country. She would  mix in some cooked rice or short pasta with the peas to complete the meal.

It wouldn’t have made any difference what she added because it was one of my least favourite things to eat, unable to bring myself to swallow the peas.  She would eventually give in and allow me to have a bowl of plain rice or pasta for dinner instead.

History repeated itself when I spared my children the same horror of swallowing green peas and tackling this strange looking vegetable set upon their plate.  I’m not sure if any of them have eventually acquired a taste for this dish or perhaps deleted it from their memory altogether.

I don’t know exactly when the change occurred but I have grown to enjoy both peas and artichokes alike.  Coincidentally my least favourite colour used to be green and I’m not quite sure if there is a connection but I have also come to appreciate the various shades of the colour green as well.

After looking for different recipes for stuffed artichokes this particular one seems to be unique since I have not found one similar up to this day.  Thanks to my mother I have learned several different ways of turning this member of the thistle family into some tender, sweet dishes.

From the simple preparation of steamed artichoke hearts dressed in a light olive oil and lemon dressing to these stuffed artichokes served with peas this interesting vegetable can be truly enjoyed.

Once the leathery outer leaves with their sharp barbs are removed the heart of the matter is revealed which is truly versatile and delicious.

Stuffed Artichokes with Peas 


These are approximate measures and the recipe can easily make two servings as well as a dozen.   It can be served as a main dish when adding the rice or pasta or as a vegetable side without.  It also depends on the size and number of artichokes you have how much filling to prepare.  The measurements listed below are the amounts used when  preparing the recipe for this posting.

Preparation of Artichokes
  1. Peel off tough outer layers of artichokes until you reach the tender light coloured leaves.
  2. Cut stem off close to bottom of artichoke making sure it will be able to stand up on its own.
  3. Prepare a bowl of cold water and lemon juice or slices to place cut artichokes into to prevent browning.
  4. Cut off tough upper portion of artichoke and immediately place into bowl filled with water and lemon.
  5. Place a pot of salted water on the stove,when it comes to a boil add cleaned artichokes and cook for about five minutes to soften.
  6. Remove artichokes from water and drain upside down to remove any water.
  7. While still warm spread the leaves open a little and fill with prepared filling.
  8. Set aside.

Egg and Bread Stuffing


For every slice of soft bread used you will need:
1 egg 
About ¼ cup grated cheese (crotonese, parmigiano or your favourite grating cheese)
Salt and pepper to taste
1 to 2 teaspoons chopped Italian parsley

1.    Coarsely grate bread (freezing slice for a few minutes makes
       grating easier or use a food processor.)
2.    Beat the egg well then mix in remaining ingredients.
3.    Allow mixture to rest a few minutes until moisture is absorbed,
       set aside.
4.    Makes approximately 3/4 cups of stuffing.


Peas

about 2/3 of a 750 gram bag of frozen peas
one medium onion (finely chopped)
¼ cup corn oil
Salt and pepper to taste
water
  1. Add oil to a wide bottom pan or skillet.
  2. Add finely chopped onion and sauté just until softened.
  3. Add the peas and seasonings and stir around just until the peas begin to defrost.
  4. Make as many little wells among the peas as you have artichokes then place each artichoke into one of the wells.
  5. Push the peas up around the artichokes to ensure that they remain upright.
  6. Add enough water to cover the peas, cover with  lid slightly ajar to let steam escape.
  7. Cook until peas are tender and stuffing has set.










 

 







Notes, Tips and Suggestions
  • Medium and small size artichokes are best for this recipe.
  • One batch of above filling will be enough to fill approximately 4 to 5 medium artichokes, two batches were made to fill the 10 small artichokes made for this posting.
  • Cook rice or a short pasta separately and mix in with the peas for a main course.